美好设计摩羯座 | 90后 | 江苏省-苏州市

11.26

从手稿到成衣，用服装谱写旷世的爱情绝唱的台湾设计师Peng Tai

“ 我想衣服的价值，是要去体会去穿的，而不是表象 ”

—— Peng Tai

落叶般的沧桑和旧时光的质感

当第一次看到他的作品

被一种难以名状的质朴

所打动

突然想起《呼啸山庄》里那片荒芜阒静的农场

在那方呼啸着寒风的森林里

铭心刻骨

曾谱写旷世的爱情绝唱

在他的设计里

我们似乎可以看到那座山庄里的落叶

萧瑟的树枝

枯萎散落在地面上的干花

和时光之尘一同呼吸的泥土

台湾设计师 Peng Tai

原名戴鹏

以“先锋”的意识

与对“质感”的精准拿捏而著称

其强烈风格在新生代设计师中独树一帜

版型款式涉猎了大量戏剧元素

面料倾向于自然生成

逐渐形成了一套属于自己的创作语言

“ 衣服会因长时间摩擦产生褶皱和凸起

这是温度感和时间感

从而衣服变成了记录时间和记忆最好的载体

久而久之

衣服变成了你 ”

—— Peng Tai

Peng Tai 本科毕业于台湾辅仁大学

研究生毕业于伦敦时装学院 LCF 男装

先后实习于日本设计师 Issei Fujita

及品牌 Lumen et Umbra 实习和工作

并任职于阿根廷裔设计师 Aitor Throup 等时装品牌

服装制作过程

制版过程

试装

Line Up

他一直痴迷于“先锋”的尝试，大约几年前的“暗黑”风格到如今的“工匠”，台湾心平气和的水土养就了Peng“磨洋工”的习惯。在意大利设计师Lumen et umbra和伦敦的设计师AitorThroup手下工作一段时间后，Peng在工作室习得的技艺上加入了自己的气味，从而制作了他的MA毕业系列。

他的毕业作品是思考男人与衣服之间的关系。有关快时尚所带来的问题，服饰制造业让每个人都有大量的衣服，人们越来越不珍惜自己的衣服，不像以前人们一件衣服可以穿很久很久，而且现在衣服成为了一种社会地位的象征。

Peng Tai 在初期

受到解构主义大师 Martin Margiela

和川久保玲的影响

他喜欢尝试不同的结构版型

没有很在意做工

认为只有版型是最重要的

但是在 LCF 学习男装之后

他渐渐转变了自己的想法

整个系列的版型皆以维持人体线条空间为基础出发，在三维人体上取得版型后再以传统平面打扮方式修正制版，从而做出还原人体的服装——最后衣服挂在衣架上也还是人形。

另一方面，以天然纤维（棉，麻，羊毛，丝）多次水洗,在裁片缝合后佐以手缝以及手工染织，亦是作为主要面料去塑造服装是另一个特点。

“除了版型

细节的处理

面料的运用等等

都是完成一件衣服的关键因素。”

—— Peng Tai

在这些设计中

他用棉、麻和羊毛等纯天然材质

经过不同程度的水洗

以及部分手工的制作等

将个人情感注入衣服

SS18 First Arrival

跟使用的材质与搭配的层次有关

他的服装风格呈现出一种慵懒与质朴的韵味

每一位穿着他设计斑驳衣衫的行者

仿佛在穿越一个个故事

彼此之间

都能够与老时光进行对话

这一刻

服装与体验者开始融为一体

Peng Tai 19FW

>>>

上一篇：《天气之子》背后画师竟然是个波兰人！他用水彩画遍的东京老铺，连霍尔都只能败下阵来......
下一篇： d.e.r 研究丨首饰设计师张凯迪——刚柔并济、亦雅亦痞

返回

基本文件流程错误 SQL 调试

/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/index.php ( 1.62 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/ThinkPHP.php ( 4.71 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/Think.class.php ( 12.32 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/Storage.class.php ( 1.38 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/Storage/Driver/File.class.php ( 3.56 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Mode/common.php ( 2.82 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Common/functions.php ( 51.90 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Common/function.php ( 75.37 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/Hook.class.php ( 5.32 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/App.class.php ( 12.44 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/Dispatcher.class.php ( 15.15 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/Route.class.php ( 13.38 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/Controller.class.php ( 10.95 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/View.class.php ( 7.96 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Behavior/BuildLiteBehavior.class.php ( 3.69 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Behavior/ParseTemplateBehavior.class.php ( 3.89 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Behavior/ContentReplaceBehavior.class.php ( 1.94 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Conf/convention.php ( 11.26 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Conf/config.php ( 5.99 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/conf/db.php ( 0.42 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/conf/config.php ( 5.16 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Conf/alias.php ( 0.76 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Conf/tags.php ( 0.41 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Lang/zh-cn.php ( 2.57 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Conf/debug.php ( 1.51 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Conf/debug.php ( 0.24 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Behavior/InitHookBehavior.class.php ( 1.45 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/Behavior.class.php ( 0.88 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/Cache.class.php ( 3.84 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/Cache/Driver/File.class.php ( 5.90 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Common/extend.php ( 29.24 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Portal/Common/function.php ( 14.17 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Behavior/ReadHtmlCacheBehavior.class.php ( 6.08 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Behavior/CheckLangBehavior.class.php ( 2.96 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Lang/zh-cn.php ( 1.29 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Behavior/UrldecodeGetBehavior.class.php ( 0.89 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Portal/Controller/IndexController.class.php ( 17.47 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Controller/HomebaseController.class.php ( 10.72 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Controller/AppframeController.class.php ( 4.22 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Model/DictModel.class.php ( 11.88 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Model/CommonModel.class.php ( 1.49 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/Model.class.php ( 67.27 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/Db.class.php ( 5.70 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/Db/Driver/Mysql.class.php ( 8.73 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/Db/Driver.class.php ( 40.63 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Model/SjUserModel.class.php ( 49.06 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Model/Point/ViewPointModel.class.php ( 25.66 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/Template.class.php ( 28.91 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/Template/TagLib/Cx.class.php ( 22.62 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Think/Template/TagLib.class.php ( 9.19 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Lib/Taglib/TagLibSpadmin.class.php ( 1.98 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Lib/Taglib/TagLibHome.class.php ( 2.07 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php ( 18.45 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Behavior/WriteHtmlCacheBehavior.class.php ( 1.43 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Behavior/TmplStripSpaceBehavior.class.php ( 1.04 KB )
/xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/simplewind/Core/Library/Behavior/ShowPageTraceBehavior.class.php ( 5.27 KB )

[8] Undefined index: LNG /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/application/Common/Common/function.php 第 2397 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant index - assumed 'index' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 81 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant users - assumed 'users' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 90 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant users_detail - assumed 'users_detail' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 90 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant group - assumed 'group' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 99 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant bc_group - assumed 'bc_group' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 99 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant works - assumed 'works' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 108 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant works_detail - assumed 'works_detail' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 108 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant bc_works - assumed 'bc_works' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 108 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant design - assumed 'design' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 117 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant design_detail - assumed 'design_detail' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 117 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant match - assumed 'match' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 126 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant bc_portfolio - assumed 'bc_portfolio' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 126 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant match_detail - assumed 'match_detail' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 126 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant activity - assumed 'activity' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 135 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant infomation - assumed 'infomation' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 144 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant infomation_detail - assumed 'infomation_detail' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 144 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant video - assumed 'video' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 152 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant video_detail - assumed 'video_detail' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 152 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant made - assumed 'made' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 160 行.
[8] Use of undefined constant der - assumed 'der' /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 160 行.
[8] Undefined index: user /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 199 行.
[8] Undefined index: label /xp/www/shijishiji.cn/recruit_php-master/data/runtime/Cache/Portal/b8162c538cbd7b7635cb2d86d0325038.php 第 259 行.

0.1044s

ShowPageTrace